HEMA and TPO in Nail Products – What Nail Techs Should Know

The nail industry is filled with scientific-sounding ingredients, and two of the most discussed are HEMA and TPO. For nail professionals and clients alike, understanding these ingredients can make a big difference in both safety and performance.

What is HEMA?

HEMA (2-Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate) is a small, versatile monomer that has been used in nail products for many years. It is commonly found in gel polishes, builder gels, and acrylic systems.

Flat lay of nail products, nitrile gloves, and a product label listing HEMA and TPO as ingredients in nail products.

Why HEMA is Used in Nail Products

  • Provides excellent adhesion to the natural nail.
  • Creates flexibility, helping prevent cracks and breaks.
  • Supports smooth, even application.

What Nail Techs Should Know About HEMA

HEMA has gained attention because it is a powerful bonding agent. This makes it one of the reasons nail enhancements can last for weeks without lifting.

Like any ingredient, improper use can cause sensitivity in some individuals. Skin contact, overexposure, or poor curing methods may lead to irritation. This is not unique to HEMA – many monomers and photoinitiators can cause similar reactions if handled incorrectly.

👉 To learn more, read: HEMA in Nail Products – Nailypedia

What is TPO?

TPO (Triphenylphosphine Oxide) is a photoinitiator used in gel products. Its job is to help gels cure properly under UV or LED light. Without it, gels may remain under-cured, soft, or prone to lifting.

Why TPO Matters

  • Ensures gels cure evenly and thoroughly.
  • Improves strength and durability.
  • Reduces the chance of lifting or peeling.

TPO can also cause sensitivity for some people, but as with HEMA, this usually relates to improper application or repeated overexposure, rather than the ingredient itself being “bad.”

HEMA vs HEMA-Free Products

HEMA-free formulas are becoming more common, especially for clients with very sensitive nails or skin. However, it is important to note:

  • HEMA-free does not always mean allergen-free, as many alternatives still contain methacrylates.
  • HEMA-free products often do not adhere as strongly, which may affect retention and wear time.
  • HEMA remains one of the most effective adhesion agents in the nail industry when used properly.

How Nail Techs Can Work Safely

Both HEMA and TPO are safe when used correctly. Nail technicians can reduce risks by:

  • Wearing nitrile gloves and avoiding direct skin contact.
  • Using professional curing lamps that match the product’s formula.
  • Following correct application steps and keeping products off the skin.
  • Storing products properly and checking expiry dates.

Final Thoughts

Both HEMA and TPO are essential ingredients in modern nail technology. They make today’s gels and enhancements long-lasting, flexible, and reliable. When applied with care, they are safe for both technicians and clients.

Rather than fearing ingredients, the key is knowledge and proper technique. By understanding how HEMA and TPO work, nail professionals can deliver beautiful results while maintaining client safety.

Headshot of Stacy Ferguson, UK Nail Expert and Beauty Writer for Nail Blog UK
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Stacy Ferguson is a UK-based nail expert, beauty writer, and content creator with years of experience in the professional nail industry. She shares nail care tips, product reviews, and inspiration for aspiring nail technicians, helping them thrive in salons or as home-based nail artists.